HO scale model train layouts are incredibly popular. However in the United Kingdom they are referred to OO scale. They are not exactly the same but very close.

The popularity has come about because you don’t need a lot of space to enjoy a well detailed model railroad.

Model Railways in HO scale are 1:87, which means they are 1/87 the size of a real train.

This is a great size to be able to handle, but not too small that you struggle to see all the detail. HO model railways can be easily created on a 4 foot x 8 foot table or as large as you want to go.

Adding some level of realism to HO scale model train layouts is so much easier than the larger G scale or the small z scale. And expanding a HO scale model railway is easy, with the huge amount of accessories available.

You will find it to be the most economical scale to model with. Because of the huge demand, the manufacturers have been able to mass produce accessories for HO scale model train layouts. This has obviously brought the price down and provided a huge amount of choice.

I have seen many great starter electric train sets with digital command control for as low as $150.00. In the past I would have warned you not to purchase these starter electric train sets because you would run into a problem when you tried to expand it.

Usually the problems started with a power pack that would just handle the small oval track, 1 locomotive and no more. As soon as you added more track the power pack would struggle to send the power all the way around the track and you would end up with varying voltages around the track. This resulted in the locomotive starting and stopping erratically.

Nowadays, the starter electric train sets come with digital command control which eliminates the voltage drop problem and some are capable of handling up to 10 locomotives. They are amazing!

So, if you are looking at HO scale model train layouts, you may want to start there.

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2. S Scale Model Trains – A Bit of History
3. Model Railroad Layouts

Pick a Railroad… Any Railroad
Choosing a specific railroad to focus on can make the hobby much more more economical. Your railroad can be modern day like the Union Pacific, BNSF, or Canadian National. Or it can be a “fallen flag”, a railroad that’s been taken over by a larger company. Many modelers choose the railroad whose trains they watched passing by as a child.

Home Is Where You Lay Your Track
A model railroad takes space. Whether you’re playing with toy trains on the floor, building landscaped modules to participate in a club, or devoting your entire basement to a railroad empire you need to decide how much space your railroad is going to take.

I actually think it’s better to play with your trains and track for a while before thinking about building a permanent layout. The experience will help you plan a better layout. A 5 x 9 foot ping-pong table is great for experimenting with temporary layouts to get started, provided its not too flimsy.

Plan Your Layout
Once you’ve selected your scale and identified your available space, you can start planning your layout. There are a number of track planning software packages available to help you design your layout. First you need to decide what kind of you’ll be using.

It’s also helpful to look at layout plans on club and manufacturer web sites. These plans specify the use of a specific brand of track, but if you find a layout that you like on a web site, don’t choose your track simply because the design calls for it. With a little work you can implement nearly any track plan using any brand of track.

Power To The Trains
A packaged train set will usually come with a transformer or powerpack. The photo shows a DC powerpack that comes bundled with Kato track and train sets.

In recent years serious model railroaders are turning to computer controlled trains. Digital Command Control (DCC), the industry standard for digital model train control, is widely available today. Three-rail O scale manufacturers tend to have their own proprietary digital control systems instead of using DCC.

Form Follows Function
Okay… we’ve covered the mechanics of model railroading; now let’s talk about the aesthetics.

Model railroading is as much an art as an engineering discipline. I’ve seen one fellow posting on model railroad forums refer to his layout as a “kinetic sculpture”, and this is a completely accurate description of what we do. A model railroad layout is a sculpture in motion. This is what distinguishes it from most other art forms.

There’s a Time and a Place for Everything
So where exactly is your railroad? The Canadian Rockies? The plains of Texas? Downtown Chicago? What time of year is it? Is it spring, summer, fall, or winter? Is it 1888, 1952, or 2002?. All of these factors influence how you will decorate your layout.

You need to decide these things before investing in any trains, landscaping materials, or structure kits. You don’t want to be running a Japanese 21st Century Shinkansen Bullet Train alongside an 1880s Consolidation steam locomotive that’s pulling Overton passenger cars on an elevated track through downtown Chicago in the 1970s… or maybe you do.

The Bottom Line
What’s it going to cost? The real question is, how much do you want to spend? If you want to buy quality equipment you’ll need $350 to $500 to get started in HO or N scale, and more for O scale or Z scale. Of course that’s just the beginning. Whether you’re collecting trains, building and painting kits, or landscaping your layout, like most other hobbies, model railroading will have ongoing expenses. It isn’t about the money; it’s about the pleasure you derive from it.

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Coming in on a Saturday would give me a chance to work with some folks I normally don’t get to work with, so I figured it would be a good opportunity to learn something new. I did learn some new stuff but I also re-learned something I already knew; or so I thought.

It was time to pull one of the freight trains off the main line into the Midland Yard and send out something else for awhile.

There was a young boy watching me work the control panel, and, since I like to engage the public whenever I can, I asked him which train I should sent out next.

He picked the “Yellowstone” engine shown in the picture at right, a massive 2-8-8-4 steam locomotive.

I brought the other train in from the main line and sent out the Yellowstone. While the train was pulling out onto the main line I was distracted by a commotion on the other side of the layout. After I returned to the yard control panel I started moving some of the rolling stock around to set up another freight train to run next.

I was pretty intent on what I was doing in the yard and didn’t notice the small crowd of about a dozen visitors lining up to watch the yard action. As I was happily moving an engine around the yard I heard someone say, “Hey, I think that train is going to . . .” and then CRASH! The train with the huge engine I had sent out a few minutes earlier came crashing into the yard at nearly full speed, rear-ending another train!

I had forgotten to reset the switch that leads from the main line into the yard. Instead of continuing on the main line, the train followed the track back into the yard. Three sidings full of trains were now scattered all over the yard, and in front of an audience of about a dozen people! It would have been embarrassing without the audience, but I wanted to crawl under a rock!

One of the other volunteers helped me clean up my mess and got the train back on the main line. Fortunately, none of the trains were damaged. As we were cleaning up the mess, I ran through my head what had happened to lead up to the crash. In the same way that I was modeling freight yard operations, I had inadvertently modeled a railroad disaster. I had allowed something to distract me from following the procedures that would have prevented the crash.

Fortunately, I don’t have to deal with an NTSB accident investigation and, other than my bruised ego, no one was hurt. I will no doubt, have to endure a little more ribbing from my fellow volunteers at the museum.

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A simple plastic stir stick, available at most fast food restaurants that serve coffee, can be used as shown in the pictures at right to uncouple two cars.

Simply insert the pointed end of the stir stick into the coupler and rotate clockwise until the coupler arms release each other.

The cars shown in the pictures are O Scale cars with Kadee couplers. I haven’t tested this on smaller scale cars, but I’m sure something similar would work for those scales as well.

I’ve used this technique while reorganizing cars in the freight yard on the TCMRM layout; it’s fast and effective.

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I find that reading current magazines helps me stay fresh with what’s new as well as picking up tidbits of useful info. I decided to check to see what’s available today and share it with you.

Since Amazon.com is a great source for books and other stuff (I’ve personally bought not only books but computer parts and even a replacement stylus for my PDA phone) I thought I’d look there. Since we’re communicating via the internet I figure Amazon.com is a good resource.

Here’s what I found (I’m not a proficient copywriter, so I’ll use their product descriptions along with my own comments):

	Model Railroader Magazine Product Description Tips, projects, and photographs designed to help readers improve layouts and keep in touch with the hobby. This is the magazine I am most familiar with and the one I looked for first every time I got the itch to read about model railroading.
	Classic Toy Trains Magazine Product Description Provides information through articles and photographs on collecting and maintaining classic model trains. I picked up a copy of this magazine locally and found the articles useful. It was full of great photos to go with the articles. I also found the ads in this magazine more useful than those in Model Railroader magazine.
	Model Railroad News Magazine Product Description Model Railroad News brings you the best up to date model railroading information each and every month. It provides timely, in-depth coverage of new products, model railroading news, and includes highly regarded product reviews. I’m not familiar with this magazine but I’m including it in the list for your reference.
	Model Railroad Craftsman Magazine Product Description For the model railroad enthusiast, beginner and advanced collectors. Contains information on scale and toy trains, how-to, plans, layouts, new products, books, meets, and photos. I’m not familiar with this magazine but I’m including it in the list for your reference.

I noticed that all of these magazines were available for delivery to US addressess only, but I’m sure there are options available for those of you outside of the US.

Reading current model railroading magazines will help keep you up to date on the latest trends and products available.

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The centerpiece is a large O-gauge model railroad on display for the public. Each of the four main lines are 220′ long which translates into two scale miles of track! In addition to the four main lines there are several yard lines, some of which can be seen in the photo at right.

Also seen in the photo is one of the trolley cars. The cars on the trolley line actually get their power from the overhead lines that run the length of the line from the foreground of this photo to the train station.

From their brochure:

On May 1, 1934, a group of modelers met to form the St. Paul Craftsman Club and begin building an O-gauge model railroad. From these humble beginnings, and through several location and name changes, the Twin City Model Railroad Museum has grown to a world-class museum.

Now located in historic Bandana Square, the Twin City Model Railroad Museum is an exquisitely detailed model panorama of railroads of the Twin Cities during the 1930′s, 1940′s and 1950′s. This was a time when both steam and diesel engines shared the rails.

Thousands of volunteer hours have faithfully reproduced Twin Citys railroad history in O Scale (1/4 inch equals 1 foot), an impressive sight and well worth your visit. Come watch the Empire Builder speed along miles of track through the Twin Cities, rumble over St. Anthony Falls on the famed Stone Arch Bridge and down the Mississippi. Freight trains haul the goods to and from the industries that made the Twin Cities famous.

The Twin City Model Railroad Museum is a non-profit organization. Our mission is to provide family entertainment for the young and old alike, while preserving this era of Minnesota railroad history.

While there, I got into a discussion with Paul Gruetzman, one of the volunteers, about the museum and my interest in model railroading. He told me that the museum was a volunteer organization and that they were always looking for volunteers with an interest in model railroading. It didn’t take me long to decide to volunteer. What better way, I thought, to learn about model railroading then to spend time at a model railroad museum!

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Many people ask me how to apply ballast even if they have done it before. They must not be satisfied how theirs turned out so the very best way will be presented here.

I use several techniques and each one has an advantage over the other as the desired effects or the situations vary. A neat looking roadbed is a major accomplishment and very satisfying to look at when finished.

Basic Information

The best rule of thumb is to apply it slowly and carefully. Each step is very important to follow because “now”, you will be in control of its finished appearance.

It takes extra work to “fix” areas where the ballast is too thick and mounded up. This problem is going to happen in places where we didn’t mean too anyway. I’ll show you how to “re-groom” a disaster. Study all the techniques we have introduced in the text and then evaluate the various options presented.

Getting Started

Cut a corner off the package. Sprinkle it right from the package directly to the roadbed. The four mil Poly package is ridged and will not collapse when you work with it. Keep the opening about four inches or less from your work. Shake the bag back and fourth and parallel to the roadbed as you tip it. Apply only enough to cover the area. You can always add some more later and you will have to anyway because of random bare spots after wetting and gluing. If you get to much on the ties, (knuckle head), stop!

Grooming Around The Ties

Use a stiff brush to move the extra down the line. There will still be a few grains on the ties and rail flanges. Tap the rail tops with the brush handle to bounce these stubborn particles away. Your can then wipe the tie tops with your finger tip to remove the rest.

For Track Without Roadbed

This applies to all track without roadbed such as industrial sidings, yards or even mainlines. If you want the ballast to be perfectly flat beyond the ties, lift the package up a little higher while sprinkling. This will disperse the grains further and help eliminate mounds. A piece of paper can be used as a guard where the ballast line stops against other scenery.

Fixes

A big mound of ballast maybe to big too feather out so, just scoop it up with a spoon and remove it. Those little unwanted mounds occur in places where I don’t want them. I use a small piece of news paper and drag it over the mound back and forth to feather it out. What ever you use, it will leave a mark. Your fingers will leave prints and a brush will leave furrows. The best way to erase these marks is by tapping the bench work from below with a hammer to flatten them out.

Ballasting With Roadbed

Split cork roadbed always has a rough burr that needs to be sanded smooth. Other roadbeds such as Homosote need to have the sharp edges sanded round. If the track is not centered on the roadbed, plan on using more ballast to make it even from side to side.

Start ballasting from the bench work up to the top of the roadbed first. This allows the lower grains to become a foundation for the grains that pile up on top. If you ballast from the top down, the rocks pick up speed on the sloped roadbed and make a mess as they bounce all over. Now you can ballast around the ties as we mentioned before.

Grooming

Wherever the ballast is uneven along the sloped bank, drag a piece of news paper over it to grade it. You may even have to drag material from bottom to the top. Sprinkle more ballast only to even out your repair marks.

Ballasting With Two Or More Colors

Western railroads are notorious for re-ballasting with different colors over the years. You can see different color bands in the roadbed as a result of this. Begin by applying an earth product on the bench work up to both sides of the roadbed. Start applying the lowest color along the base of the roadbed and cover it up to the top edge of the slope. Apply the second color around the ties but don’t let it spill down the slope and mix into the other ballast. Three colors can be done the same way, however a taller roadbed such as Homosote makes it easier.

Wetting

All dry scenery material should be wetted before bonding. We add a few drops of liquid dish soap to a quart of water as a dispersant. This helps the water flow thought the material evenly and thoroughly. The material needs to get wet right down to the base. The wetting operation prepares the material for accepting the bonding material.

Some modelers prefer to use rubbing alcohol or photo flow as a wetting agent because they are of a lower viscosity than water. This means that it’s less likely to leave “pot holes” in the dry ballast.

How to wet

Eye Dropper Method.
It is very easy to disturb the ballast with even a drop of water.

1. Start wetting the ballast by dropping water on the ties. The water will slowly run off them and into the ballast. You will see the water spread out into the dry ballast
2. Now you can drop water where ever the ballast is already wet. Do about a foot of track until all the ballast is wet.

Spray Bottle

1. Use a spray bottle that gives a fine mist. Hold the nozzle about a foot away and start spraying in a sweeping motion. The one foot distance allows the sprayer to disperse the water into a mist without blasting the dry ballast.
2. Some nozzles will sputter water drops just as you pull the trigger. Start the spray action where the ballast is already wet and then move it over the dry ballast.
3. Continue spraying until the ballast is soaked.

Before You Bond It

Take a good look at the wet ballast. If you are not satisfied with the neatness of it, stop! Allow it to dry out and then “fix it” while you can.

Bonding Materials

White Glue
One part white glue and three parts water is the most economical type of bonding agent. I mix up a batch in a pint bottle and use it for all scenery work. It sets up very hard and will even amplify the train wheel sounds to the bench work. Have you ever heard a quiet train? White glue can be softened by wetting the area with water. Now you can make any changes with the track work if necessary later on.

Matte Medium
Matte Medium can be purchased in art supply stores. It is more water resistant that white glue, however, the cost can be several times more. Some modelers use it because they want less “sound board” effect while running trains.

Granular Glue
Some modelers like to pre-mix dry glue into the ballast. All you have to do is spread it in place and then wet it. “Weldwood” powdered glue will cure “water proof”. One disadvantage is that the ballast may leave depressions as the glue dissolves while wetting. The major problem is that once you “wet” it, you can’t fix it anymore.

Bonding
The same bonding method is used for “white glue” or “matte medium”. Wet ballast is fairly stable and is not disturbed like dry ballast during the bonding process. Spray bottles get glue on the rails and make clean up more difficult. I have found that an eye dropper is a safer tool to use for “N” & “HO” Fine ballast.

Start out by dripping over the ties and then out to the edges of the roadbed. You can see the milky color from the glue seep into the wetted ballast. This is how you can tell where you need to apply more bonding agent.

HO Mainline and Large Scale ballast is bigger rock so you can apply the bonding agent faster. An eye dropper is still the safer tool to avoid making those “pot holes.” You can use a 6 or 12 oz. bottle with a small extended tip and just stream the glue on between the ties. Now you can finish the sloped area the same way.

Touch Up

Once the ballast is wet, look at it for excessive mounds. They will still be there when it dries and hard to fix. Use your finger to pat it smooth and then leave it alone to dry. Hopefully this problem exists in only a few places at the most because you don’t want the finished job appearing with a lot of finger prints.

Let it dry and then lightly scrape away the loose grains sticking out and then re-ballast the area lightly and re-bond.

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The art of applying thin film wet decals to models is one that only gets better with practice. If at first you don’t succeed, try and try again.

Patience and persistency will allow you to produce models that look as good, if not better than the models in all your favorite magazines.

I am sure many people have many different methods of applying decals successfully. The methods I use were mostly developed by trial and error and lots of query at every hobby shop I’ve gone to.

As for the myth that you won’t be able to produce a great looking model until you have 20 years of experience, forget it. I have always loved trains, but I have only been a modeler for about three years. It has only been about one year since I decided to try custom painting and decaling.

If you have never tried to apply thin film decals before, your first experience will probably be one of impatience and frustration. These decals are very delicate and can be ruined very easily. For your first project, I recommend practicing with simple decal jobs which do not require strict alignment in order to look good.

Usually, rolling stock such as box cars (smooth sided), covered hoppers, etc. have pretty simple paint schemes. Many are only one or two colors. Stay away from thin, long, longitudinal lines on the long hood of a locomotive such as the GATX units you see on the St. Lawrence & Atlantic. Even the most experienced modeler can have difficulties with these.

Tools for the Task

Applying decals also requires some special tools. What I mean by special tools is you probably have them in your hobby tool box but might not think they would be used to apply decals. Here is a list of tools & supplies I have within arms reach when I apply decals to a model:

1. A shallow bowl filled about 1/2 way with luke warm water.
2. Scissors (preferably small to medium size).
3. Hobby knife.
4. Two small detailing paint brushes.
5. Solvaset (decal setting fluid).
6. Bath tissue or Kleenex (NOT paper towels).
7. Two No.2 pencils with an eraser.
8. Cross locking tweezers.
9. Decals.
10. Prototype photos (if you have any).

After you have all these items together you’re ready to apply decals.

If by now you don’t have a model to decal, it would probably be a good time to get one. Decals stick the easiest to glossy finishes. They will stick to dull finishes just as well but are much harder to work with on this type of surface.

The decals don’t slide into place as easily making it much more critical to place them almost exactly where they need to be with little or no adjustment. Because of this it may be more difficult to remove any air bubbles under the decal. First time decalers should choose something with a glossy finish. Glossy paint or clear gloss coat work equally well.

The first thing to do is to get all your tools listed above and your model and set them up on a clean flat surface with good lighting. Make sure you have plenty of room to spread out your tools so they can be easily reached if you need them quickly. Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly before you start.

Two Types of Decals

Next, choose a decal you would like to apply. At this step it is a good idea to know what type of decal you are about to apply. I am familiar of two different types; Type One is printed on a plain old sheet of decal paper, and Type Two has each individual decal printed on decal film which is then applied to the paper backing.

With Type One you must trim as close as possible to the design of the decal you are going to apply, otherwise the excess may become visible when it dries on the model. Type Two decals can be cut as close or as far away from the design as you like.

Cut Out Your Decal

Whichever type you have, cut the selected decal from the sheet and place it on the model where you would like it to be. Lining things up and visualizing what you want to do before you put the decal in the water is very important. Once you put the decal in the water, things can get difficult.

Third, you will want to wet the area where the decal will sit with some of the warm water. Use your paintbrush for this. Wetting this area will help reduce air bubbles under the decal and help you maneuver the decal into place.

When you become more experienced at applying decals, you may use the Solvaset to wet the area instead of water. There is an advantage and a disadvantage to using Solvaset instead of water.

Using water allows you unlimited time in adjusting and lining up your decal where you would like it, but does not eliminate air bubbles under the decal (it only helps to minimize).

Using Solvaset eliminates air bubbles almost entirely, BUT, and I stress BUT, you only have about 20 seconds (maximum) before the Solvaset softens the decal making it almost impossible to maneuver.

Soak the Decal

Now you may take your decal and place it in the water. I usually hold the decal with cross-locking tweezers as I place it in the water. Sometimes it is difficult to retrieve a decal, especially if it is small, from the bowl of water if you just toss it in. After about 15-30 seconds you should be able to move the decal around on the paper backing. If not put it back in the water for about 10 seconds more.

Once you can move it, place the decal and paper backing (do not remove the decal from the backing yet) on your index finger. Remove the cross-lock tweezers, slide the decal just a tiny bit to the opposite side of the hand your tweezers are in, and re-apply the tweezers to the backing paper ONLY. Now you have the backing paper and a decal which is free to slide in any direction you would like.

Position the model so you can place the edge of the decal on the model. Then hold that edge to the model with your paintbrush and slide the decal paper backing away. Try to keep the decal as close to the model as possible while pulling the backing paper.

Place the Decal

Once you have removed the backing paper, use your paintbrush to position the decal. Pushing on the edges of the decal is most effective. You may also use the eraser of a No.2 Pencil to move the decal around. Remember, if you used Solvaset instead of water to wet your surface, you must work fast.

Position the decal where you would like it to be. Try to push out any air bubbles under the decal by rolling the bristles of the paintbrush to the outer edge of the decal. After all of the air bubbles have been removed, very gently brush on Solvaset sparingly while not moving the position of the decal. Be sure to cover the whole decal, especially around the edges. The Solvaset usually works its way under the decal pretty good.

Allow the Decal to Dry

At this point you should put the model down and let this decal dry. If you are confident enough you may apply more decals, but remember the decal you just applied is very fragile. If you touch it before it dries you will probably ruin it.

Sometimes the Solvaset makes the decal appear as if it is wrinkling up. This is normal. The decal will set flat on the model when it dries. When the decal does wrinkle, keep an eye on it. If it appears the wrinkle is not coming out on its own you may have to get those wrinkles out.

Before you attempt to move the decal, carefully brush on some warm water (no more than a 1/2 drop or so).Carefully use your paint brush to drag the decal from the outer edges away from the center of the wrinkled area. The decal’s position on the model should not be compromised by this. You should only have to move part of the decal a distance equal to the thickness of the wrinkle.

Inspect the Decal

After the decal dries, inspect it for air bubbles that you missed the first time. If there are any, make a tiny hole in the decal with a pin and brush on some Solvaset making sure it gets in the hole and under the decal. The Solvaset will soften the decal again and make it set to the surface of the model.

Since the decal is soft and wet again you should allow it to dry. Drying times may vary; I recommend at least an hour or so. Usually I will let them dry about an hour before I apply another decal unless I know I can do it without disturbing the one I just applied.

Final Treatment

Finally, I recommend a gloss or dull coat be applied by air brush or spray can to the model after all the decals have been applied and have dried. This will help “hide” the decal edges and make your model look realistic.

After you have practiced these methods a few times and develop some of your own, you will be able to produce models of superior quality.

Your Thoughts

Do you have another method or tip for applying decals to your model railroad cars, locomotives, or scenery? Share it in the comments area below.

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RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanized) Rubber molds are simple to make and can allow you to cast several identical detail castings for your scratchbuilt models. RTV Rubber is a two-part mixture made by Dow-Corning. It comes in various styles. I find 3110 the easiest to use because it does not require an expensive vacuum pump to decompress air bubbles.

Take the detail you wish to copy, called a MASTER, and glue it into a cardboard or styrene box with dimensions about one inch longer than the master by one inch wider than the master. When placing the master in the box, you will have 1/2″ on all sides. The height of the box should be a minimum 1/4″ higher than the master (the master should be 1/4″ below the top of the box.

To find out exactly how much RTV it will take to make the mold (I don’t like to waste any RTV because it is a bit expensive), I fill the box to the top with salt, or some other granulated substance. I then pour the salt into a clear plastic cup, and level it off. With a black marker, I mark a line around the cup at the height of the salt. I then return the salt to its container.

In the cup, I slowly pour the liquid rubber until it’s just about to the line. I then take some of the catalyst (it’s in a tube with the liquid rubber mixture) on a popcicle stick. Read the directions on the tube for how much to use. It should be a 10:1 ratio of rubber to catalyst.

Slowly stir the catalyst into the rubber until the two are blended well (about 2 minutes). Air bubbles will surface as you stir. Trickle the rubber mixture into the box slowly, trying to fill the corners first. Then, slowly fill the box with the rubber. The master should be totally covered by the rubber. THE SLOWER YOU POUR, THE FEWER AIR BUBBLES THERE WILL BE.

After pouring, the box should be just about full. Gently tap the box on a flat surface for 3-5 minutes to get rid of air bubbles. Another way to eliminate the bubbles would be to use the warm air from a blow dryer. Any trapped air bubbles will ruin your mold as they will destroy the details.

Once the air bubbles stop surfacing, let the box sit on a flat surface for 24 hours. To check to see if it hardened after 24 hours, take a toothpick and gently rub it over the smooth, rubber surface. If it’s still liquidy, let it sit another several hours, checking it from time to time.

Once the rubber is hardened, cut down the sides of the box and remove it slowly and carefully from the master detail, and powder it with baby powder.

The mold, if handled with care (cleaned with dish detergent, blow dried and powdered between each use), will last for an extremely long time without losing detail. You can use Alumilite (2 part liquid plastic) or a type of plaster or polyurethane to cast your copies.

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Materials

A Tree Trunk Armature
Use anything that looks like a miniature tree of the scale, height, and species you want to model. I prefer sage brush twigs for larger deciduous trees like mature oaks and cottonwoods.

For birches and smaller deciduous trees, I use pieces from a decorative broom I bought at a Ben Franklin craft store. You can, of course, use anything that looks like a tree, from yarrow and goldenrod weeds; to herb and tree roots; to manufactured cast metal and plastic armatures.

Ground Foam
Ground foam represents the leaves of the tree. You can certainly use Woodland Scenics ground foam, but I prefer AMSI. (Your favorite hobby store can order AMSI ground foam from Walthers.) I think AMSI ground foam is lighter and fluffier than Woodland Scenics. And, in my opinion, AMSI ground foam colors are more muted and more realistic than Woodland Scenics.

For any tree, mix different colors and textures of ground foam. Remember, not all the leaves on a tree (or the sides of an individual leaf) are all exactly the same size and color. I’ve included a chart of the colors and texture mixes I use.

Woodland Scenics Polyfiber
Used to build up the volume of the tree’s foliage.

Fast Drying Clear Spray Enamel or Lacquer
Stiffens the Polyfiber foliage, readying it to accept the ground foam leaves.

Hair Spray
This is the world’s cheapest spray adhesive, and is used to glue the ground foam to the Polyfiber. I suppose you could use some other brand, but I prefer Aqua Net Unscented Super Extra Hold in the pretty lavender can. (Can anyone explain why an “unscented” hair spray includes fragrance in its list of ingredients?)

Ground Foam Color and Texture Mixtures

Assembly Instructions

1. Prepare the tree trunk armature by trimming it to size. Optionally (but preferably for larger trunks), “peg” the bottom of the trunk with a small wooden dowel or a nail so you have something to stick and glue your tree into your layout.
2. Prepare your ground foam mixture, and put a cupful in a shaker container with 1/4″ holes.
3. With your fingers, tease out a golfball-sized chunk of Polyfiber into a thin sheet.
4. Cut out a postage stamp-sized (or smaller) piece of the sheet. With two tweezers, tease out this piece until it is as thin, as wispy, and as lacy as you can possibly make it.
5. Using the tweezers, pull the piece onto an individual branch of the tree. If you are using an armature of a natural material like sage brush, you won’t need to glue the Polyfiber to the armature. Natural materials have enough surface texture to grab and hold the Polyfiber in place. Manufactured armatures, however, like those made from cast metal or plastic, might be too slippery, and sometimes need just a touch of some sort of adhesive to hold the Polyfiber.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until all of your branches are covered with the Polyfiber. Remember that when you look up through the branches of a real tree you see mostly blue sky. So on your model tree, leave plenty of empty space, and maybe a “dead” branch or two.
7. Fast path alternative: Instead of cutting, teasing, and pulling small pieces of Polyfiber onto your tree armature, take the sheet from step 3 and drape it over the entire tree. Tease the Polyfiber around the branches.
8. Please use a spray booth or an appropriately rated mask or respirator during this step! (I use both.) Spray the foliage base with clear enamel or lacquer. Set aside and let dry for at least 15 minutes. This will ensure that the Polyfiber sticks to the armature. The enamel or lacquer also stiffens the Polyfiber, thus preparing the fiber to receive the ground foam.
9. Liberally spray the foliage base with hair spray, avoiding, if possible, those parts of the trunk and branches you don’t want covered with ground foam. Immediately go to the next step!
10. Turn your tree upside down and sprinkle the ground foam mixture onto the still-wet-with-hair-spray Polyfiber. Cover the bottom side of the foliage base on each branch. Then, turn your tree right-side up and finish sprinkling the foam mixture onto the tree. Stop sprinkling the ground foam just as the Polyfiber starts to “disappear.”
11. Suggestion: Sprinkle the ground foam over a grocery bag or some newspaper. The “over sprinkle” can be reused on other trees.
12. Tap off the extra ground foam and lightly spray with hair spray. Let dry for at least 15 minutes.
13. Using your scissors, trim off any stray Polyfiber strands.
14. Lightly spray one last time with hair spray.
15. Plant, and stand back and marvel at your creation!

Tips

• I can’t stress enough how important it is to tease out the Polyfiber as much as you possibly can. Your goal should be to build a tree that you can see through.
• Vary the color and texture of your ground foam mixtures, certainly from species to species, but also from tree to tree.
• Expect to spend a lot of time with each tree. Although relatively simple to do, this technique can require up to an hour per tree. Putting the Polyfiber on the armature is time consuming and, frankly, boring. But sprinkling on the ground foam is quick, fun, and rewarding! That’s when your tree really takes on life!
• If you’re making a bunch of trees all at once, try building them all one step at a time. For example, prepare all the trunks, then fiber all the armatures, and so on.
• And one last reminder: please use a spray booth or a respirator when using spray enamel or lacquer!

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