Is it wrong to mix copper plated and steel tracks in a layout?

The first thing I thought to myself was, “I don’t believe they make copper plated track.” Well, since I’m still learning, I figured I’d better check this first.

I opened up my copy of Model Train Help by Robert Anderson and turned to the section titled What Are Tracks Made Of? Re-reading this section confirmed that model railroad track available today is made of brass, zinc-coated steel, nickel silver and steel.

Based on this, I’m guessing the “copper plated” track is either brass, which looks like copper, or nickel silver, because it has a slight gold tint.

By the way, Model Train Help includes a pretty good explanation of the pros and cons of using the different types of track.

OK, back to the question about mixing different types of track on a layout. The short answer is that it is not “wrong” to mix two different types of track. However… I would avoid using different types of track on the same layout if I could afford to.

Having different types of track doesn’t look natural because of the color difference and, as mentioned in the section on track in Model Train Help, different types of track have different levels of electrical conductivity.

Imagine your model train running erratically on one type of track and then suddenly surging when it starts running on the other track. Steel track oxidizes (rusts) and doesn’t conduct electricity very well when the oxidation builds up.

What do you think? Have I missed something? Have you had an experience with more than one type of track on your layout? Leave a comment in the box below and let me know.

PS; Model Train Help – Your Step-By-Step Guide to Model Railroading by Robert Anderson, with over 225 pages of useful model railroading information, is available for immediate download. If you would like to help support Model Train Tips, consider purchasing this eBook through one of the links above.

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If you want to add boulders to your HO, N, O scale train set, go out to your yard or a street and find regular rocks and shave the bottoms flat and glue them to your layout.

This way you can use the shavings for gravel and this process is one hundred percent free.

How have you used rocks or similar material on your model train layout? Share your technique in the comments area below.

Do you have a tip or technique you’d like to share with Model Train Tips readers? Use the contact form on the Contact Model Train Tips page to send it in.

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3. Planning A Small Model Train Layout

For most model railroad enthusiasts, designing and building a model railroad layout is a wonderful part of the hobby. If you like letting your imagination fly, designing your own model railroad layout can be one of the most fun activities you’ll ever do.

Some layouts just “wow” you when you see their size and scope, such as multiple tracks and trains, or handmade scenery and environments. You know a lot of love and labor went into it. But a good layout doesn’t necessarily have to be complicated, especially if you’re just starting out. With a mixture of a little creativity, organization, and foresight, you can build not only a functional layout but one with a potential to be a masterpiece.

So where do you start when you’re thinking of designing your layout? There are any number of layout guide books, both online and in stores to give you good ideas. You might even find one or two at the library. You can also look through magazine articles or online videos. Bouncing your ideas with members of the local model railroad club is a great way to get some good feedback about the possibilities and potential problems.

Certainly, copying a layout is fine, but don’t feel tied to it. There are only a few right or wrongs when designing and building a layout. This is your world you’re creating, so add your personal touches.

Here are some pointers to consider.

1. If you’re thinking of a bigger layout, consideration has to be given to the room (or rooms!) you are going to be using. What looks good on paper, just may not fit in your house.

2. Before you get too far along, make sure that you have what you think you have. For example, do you have enough pieces to make what you want work? If you design too big for the amount of scenery or track available it will look empty.

3. Do your accessories match the train’s size? It’s pretty frustrating to find that after building a beautiful curving tunnel that your locomotive gets gets stuck inside it because it’s too long or too big. Attention to detail will have you check beforehand that all your pieces fit each other before gluing them down or together.

4. Try to keep the layout consistent within itself. Using a 1950′s locomotive in a 1890′s town will not mesh well. Totally new train cars in an inner city would where all the buildings are shabby wouldn’t reflect the real world.

5. Allow for the scenery to change from one area to another just as it would on a long train ride. If going through the countryside, adding tunnels through mountains, lakes, or bridges over rivers. A wide variety of buildings and structures separated by park areas can help create a sense of traveling through a city.

6. Identify any needed skills or tools you’ll need to build your design. With such things as multiple tracks, elevation changes, and switches, the complexity of the system increases, sometimes dramatically. Thankfully, most skills can be learned as you go, however, sometimes our imagination is bigger than our current capacities and you may need some help. Don’t be afraid to ask for it.

One last piece of advice is that, short of breakage, most mistakes can be corrected, so don’t worry too much about making them. Talk to most railroaders and they’ll tell you that most all layouts are a work in progress and that they are forever tinkering.

Designing model railroad layouts is fun. Enjoy the process and you just might find yourself amazed at your results.

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2. Model Railroad Wiring Basics
3. Model Train Scenery – 10 Tips for Realistic Model Railroading Scenery Design

If you search online you will be able to find all kinds of different hints and model train tips, from how to choose the right model train scale, to how to create realistic looking model train scenery.

In this article I am going to bring some of the lesser known tips to your attention though. Now, in the introduction I mentioned model train scale and by typing those words into any search engine it’s relatively simple to find tips as to how to determine model train scale and what the difference is between scale and model train gauges.

Too tight a radius here could spell disaster for the businesses next to this curve!

However, do you know what the implications of these size differences are? Now I’m not talking about the fact that different scales can’t be used together (well, not without modification, but that’s a different whole different story!).

Instead, I’m talking about a consideration that is rarely thought about with much level of detail by newcomers to model railway building, which is the curve radius or your model railway trains.

More importantly, I want to look at how to avoid derailment, which let’s face it, is an extremely frustrating problem.

It comes down to calculating the tightest turning circle available that allows the locomotives and carriages to get round safely. A simple guide for this is that the layout width must equal at least the minimum turning circle your train can make without derailment. For example, in HO a tight 180 degree turnaround takes 86cm / 34″, whereas on a TT scale model railways, a tight 180 degree turnaround takes only 53.4cm / 21″.

Another tip that I feel is worth mentioning here is that many people who are new to model railroading (and even some experienced ones too!) are unaware that model train track curves can be bought with different radii, with track pieces possibly be available in 15, 22.5, 30, and 45 degree arcs, depending on manufacturer. This means that sharper or more gradual curves are possible with the same amount and length of pieces.

The trick is also to making sure that you trains are designed to work within a certain turning circle, with four axle trains being able to get round tighter turns than those with six axles. It’s also worth noting that older trains and freight wagons which, often have shorter wheel bases are going to be able to handle tighter turns much better than newer, more modern passenger trains. Therefore, if you are designing a layout for small space with tight turning circles, this will lend itself better to a freight yard theme than an Intercity passenger set up.

My final tip is to remember, although we want to make sure that our model railroads are as realistic as possible, we also have to remember that we have to be realistic about the amount and size of space that we have available. Just because you may not see a turn of such radii in real life, if your lack of space dictates that you must then there really isn’t much you can do to change this.

If it is something that bothers you though, I’ve learnt a neat little trick and that is that you hide this in your scenery in some way, such as in a tunnel or behind a hill, row of trees or building for example.

A word of warning though, relating to the point I made earlier about derailments and that is that even though you may have managed to hide the tight turns, your longer locomotives will still not be able make it around these turns and this may limit the choice of train available to you. You will therefore have to choose between more rails and smaller trains.

Of course these are just a few tips and tricks that are available and there are obviously far more model train tips than can ever been written in a single article!

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Derailment in Portugal (photo courtesy Joao Rocha)

By John Branden 

It took me a long time to figure out the best way to stop derailment issues on my layouts.

Because I use N gauge trains and track which is quite small and tricky the problem may be exaggerated but these rules apply to all gauges.

I would fix one section of the track one day and the very next day I would get a derailment on a different section. This is frustrating because it make you nervous about the rest of the layout.

When trains run smoothly on the rails you feel really good about the layout. When a model train derails it can be a nightmare but it is actually quite easy to put right with a little attention to detail.

So my 8 ways to curing your model train derailments are:

1 – Ensure every joint on your track is level, aligned and properly fitted.

This is the most common fault and often is difficult to spot but it is a critical issue.

Keep the gap between rails to an absolute minimum, if you can feel the joint when you run your finger over it you have probably found the problem. If you are seeking security solder the joints because this stops any problems with opening and closing of the joints caused by temperature change or layout flexing. Clean up the soldered joint with a needle file. Just like the real thing, this creates a continuous track.

2 – Check your track gauge on joints, turnouts and frog assemblies.

Constant use and wear to the track components has the effect of either squeezing or opening the gauge. This is common but more pronounced on small gauge layouts. If you install the moving track sections accurately and securely you should have no problems.

3 – Check the rail end at the switch points.

Some new switch points can be fairly blunt on the movable section where it strikes up against the stock rails. This can grab on the wheels and cause a model train derailment. A needle file should be used to smooth the moveable part of the points to allow a smooth transition. Make sure the gauge is identical in the open and closed positions.

4 – Carefully check all train and rolling stock couplers.

A snagging coupler will cause derailments. New locomotives are sometimes delivered with snags on the coupler, as do some carriages. The manufacturers usually provide instructions on how to clean up, smooth out couplings and also for centring.

5 – Add some weight behind the locomotive.

Very often there is not enough weight bearing down through the wheels on to the track, especially with plastic rolling stock. By adding a small amount of weight to the cars your train will run more smoothly. Remember that when everything is running smoothly the chances of derailments are very low. Don’t use excessive weight and make sure you place it over the wheels and make sure that any load clears all you overhangs like bridges etc..

6 – Check all the wheels on each piece of rolling stock.

Alignment of all the wheels in a set is critical and then each set on a carriage should line up with each other. This stops any crabbing and if the gauge measurement between the flanges is constant you can go the next carriage. Wheel alignment seems obvious but is often not seen as a problem because there should not be a reason for them to move askew, but it can happen. Carriages should be free to rock just to take up any track imperfections.

7 – If anything is stiff or squeaking, lubricate it.

Oil is the answer to so many problems associated with derailments but is generally not used because it is difficult to apply in minute quantities which is important. Go down to the hobby shop and get a precision oil can that will cost 50 cents. Too much oil attracts dust and can damage paintwork, so make sure get that oil can.

8 – Just make sure everything is clean.

All parts of the track especially moving parts, all rolling stock and locomotives. All electrical connections and controls. We call if preventative maintenance.

If you keep you system clean and follow the advice derailments should be a thing of the past. Great help is given by the manufacturers now as quality standards have improved hugely.

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The popularity of the HO scale model train is in large part due to its ideal blend of size and detail. Besides the detail provided by the model trains themselves, modelers pride themselves in their quality track planning and benchwork.

The preparation and design of the track layout itself is referred to as track planning. The underlying structure beneath the track is called the benchwork. Attention to both concepts contributes to a successful HO scale model train layout.

So why do model railroad modelers emphasize their track planning and benchwork? Many model railroad hobbyists enjoy the operations side of model trains. They choose to focus on recreating the actual operations of a railroad.

Other railroaders take pride in the quality and creativity of their train layouts. And for many, the layout reflects on the skill and enthusiasm of the hobbyist. It’s a measure of the railroader.

Benchwork: The Foundation

Given the standard 4 foot by 8 foot rectangular size of plywood, this size is often becomes a starting point for the model railroad foundation. But consider variations on this popular size. For example, many HO scale model train modelers choose 30 inch by 60 inch sections screwed together.

The sections may be combined in a variety of ways, including along the perimeter of a room. By building benchwork for model trains in sectionals, you obtain flexibility in moving or modifying the track layout. Not only does this size sectional fits through standard sized doorways, but it makes it easier for you to reach across the sectional. A trick to add realism and convenience is to mount your benchwork shoulder or chest high.

As for the material, seasoned wood or plywood is less likely to warp or bend. Avoid difficult or heavy materials such as Oriented-Stranded Board (OSB), homasote, or particle board. Consider a coat of paint for protection.

If you want a variety of elevations in your layout, consider installing sections of benchwork at different levels. However track grades should be kept under 3% grade, where the grade is the rise over the run. For example, a 2″ rise over a 100″ run is a 2% grade.

Track Planning: The Layout

The goal with model railroad track planning is the successful tradeoff between space and realism. An additional factor to consider is a table layout versus a wrap-around layout. The wrap-around layout allows for long straight sections and wide curves. Or consider double high layouts for space efficiency.

Always design before permanently attaching track. This is particularly important if your plan has little room for error. You may choose to position a track yard near the front of the benchwork, allowing closer viewing and easier access. Determine your preference between track and realism. You can do more with a lot of track, but you lose some of the realism. Don’t forget to allow space in front and back for scenery.

Track planning is about making your priorities and choosing tradeoffs based on your preferences. You may choose several turnouts, to include various types of passing, siding, facing-point, and stub-ends. Placing a stub-end close to the edge of a section or table makes it easier to park or move equipment, as you’ll likely prefer to store extra equipment on close shelves.

You’ll likely want to have at least one track segment that allows for non-stop operation. Of course actual railroads don’t run in a loop, but running a train non-stop is a great feature. But for a realistic layout, combine features such as loops with point-to-point sidings.

These tips should help with your own track planning and benchwork. Successful advance planning will help you identify your priorities and design to those preferences. And you’ll be better able to manage the tradeoff between realism and detail. No doubt, your up-front planning will result in more HO scale model train layout success.

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An important part of your model railroad is the track plan. This is the layout of all your track work and will determine where the trains will run.

There are several options when designing your model railroad track plan. The design will ultimately depend on your interests and available resources including space. The types of trains you wish to run will also play a big part into determining the most suitable track plan.

One of the most popular track plans is a circular, continuous running track. This can have sidings branching off at various locations and stations along the line. This track layout allows you to open the throttle on your train and sit back and enjoy it passing by. You have the option of stopping at stations and reversing to drop off carriages or pick them up just to add a little bit of interest.

The circular track plan can be laid onto a solid baseboard with the operator watching over the entire layout. Some enthusiasts cut a hole in the centre of the baseboard for the operator to sit. This way the operator can only see a part of the layout at one time and it seems as though trains are actually going somewhere. The operator can turn their head and they can feel as if they are watching over a completely different location on their layout.

Circular model railroad track plans usually require a fair amount of space as 180 degree curves are usually required to turn the train around the board. Some people may only have a narrow space for a layout and an “end to end” design may be more suitable for them. “End to end” model railroad track plans can be really interesting and a lot of fun to operate.

It is common to have a terminal station and goods sidings at each of the layout and a train is marshaled and sent along the line to the other terminus at the other end of the layout. The train can be re-marshaled and sent back and so on. This generates a lot of interest for the operator and the observer however it makes it difficult to just open the throttle and sit back and watch if that is what you like.

You don’t have to have an “end to end” layout with a terminal at each end. Some enthusiasts like to create the illusion that a train is going somewhere out of sight. This is where a design known as a “fiddle yard” comes in. Trains can depart a terminal station on your layout and run along a track until it disappears into a tunnel. Behind the hills out of sight is usually a set of sidings where multiple trains are stored before they are required to be sent onto the scene out of the tunnel.

From the observer’s point of view, they will see different trains appearing from the tunnel, enter the station, turn around and drive back out through the tunnel. Then another different train will come out of the tunnel and so on. This creates a really interesting and realistic display of train running. This method is really popular with model railway layouts which are exhibited at model train exhibitions as it keeps the audience entertained.

“End to end” layouts don’t necessarily have to have a fiddle yard at one end and a terminal station at the other. Some people have fiddle yards at each end and the main viewable area of the model in the middle.

People have also combined fiddle yards with continuous running track plans. The combination and options for your track plan are endless.

I would encourage you to discuss your chosen model railroad track plan with other enthusiasts before moving to the construction stage as you may find improvements that will make operating trains more interesting or that make the electrical wiring easier to implement. This part of the hobby can be very exciting and creative and is thoroughly enjoyable.

Happy Model Railroading!

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To work properly, the two rails should not contact each other and no metal object should contact both rails together.

This would cause a short circuit, which could damage your model train power pack if it happened too often.

With this in mind, assemble your model train track and connect the power pack . . . and you’ll be ready to start operating your model trains.

It is as easy as plugging in the power pack, carefully placing the locomotive on the train track, turning up the throttle . . . and enjoying!

More About Model Train Tracks

It’s best to set up your train track on a sheet of plywood, a tabletop, or other hard surface. Carpet fuzz and floor dirt can hamper smooth train operation.

Model train track comes in different types made of brass, zinc-coated steel, nickel silver and steel. Regardless of what the train tracks are made of, most track sets come with a terminal section so that you can hook into the transformer.

Brass track and zinc-coated steel track are common in starter sets and, when purchased separately, are usually cheaper in price than nickel silver tracks.

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This was a major frustration for me. I would fix one section of the track and the next day the train would derail on another section.

It frustrated me to the point of wanting to give the hobby away..!

A smooth running model train is a dream for most model train beginners. But it is actually quite easy to achieve with a little attention to detail.

Here are 7 ways to stop your model train derailing:

1 – Ensure every joint on your track is level, aligned and properly fitted

Sounds like common sense? But poorly assembled track joints are the worst offenders for derailing model trains.

Slide your finger across the joint. It should feel level with the gap between the tracks kept to the absolute minimum. I solder my joints because this stops any problems with expansion and contraction opening and closing of the joints.

With a small file I am able to create a continuously level track and have a beautifully smooth running model train.

2 – Check your track gauge on joints, turnouts and frog assemblies

Another common problem for model train derailments is incorrect track gauge. A tight track gauge will cause the wheels to climb up and derail off the track.

A wide track gauge will also derail your model train as the wheel flanges can not span the track properly. The gauge can be adjusted using a soldering iron to gently heat the rail, moving the rail to the correct position and allowing it to cool.

3 – Check your switch points for sharpness when they switch

Some new switch points can be fairly blunt on the movable section where it strikes up against the stock rails. This can grab on the wheels and cause a model train derailment.

A small file can be used to gently smooth the moveable part of the points to allow a nice smooth transition. Remember to check the gauge in both positions.

4 – Check all your model train couplers

A snagging coupler will cause model train derailments. Some new carriages can come with unpolished couplers which can catch and force derailments.

Clean off any rough edges and adjust the couplers for proper centering. The manufacturers usually provide these instructions.

5 – Add extra weight to your freight cars

I find that most freight cars are too light and sometimes all the wheels do not contact the rails equally. By adding a small amount of weight to the cars your model train will run smoother and you will eliminate derailments, especially on the tight radius’s.

Just make sure you add the weight as low as possible to the car and in the centre, keeping a low center of gravity.

6 – Check all your wheel sets for proper operation

Wheel sets that are out of gauge, not aligned or moving freely will cause your model train to derail. Check your wheel sets and make sure that your carriages are not crabbing and forcing the wheel flanges into the rail, making it prone to derail.

The carriages should rock freely to take up any small imperfections in your track.

7 – Lubricate the squeaks

Sometimes the smallest drop of light oil will cure a problem with your model train derailing. An unlubricated or snaggy wheel, or coupler, can cause a slight tip over, or jar, which usually forces the wheel flange to snag the rail and derail your model train.

Oil attracts dust and can damage paintwork, so make sure you use only the smallest amount required.

Now you have no reason to put up with your model train derailing.

It usually comes down to a small bit of maintenance from time to time. With the quality most manufacturers are producing today, and some ongoing maintenance, you can make model train derailments a thing of the past.

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Many people ask me how to apply ballast even if they have done it before. They must not be satisfied how theirs turned out so the very best way will be presented here.

I use several techniques and each one has an advantage over the other as the desired effects or the situations vary. A neat looking roadbed is a major accomplishment and very satisfying to look at when finished.

Basic Information

The best rule of thumb is to apply it slowly and carefully. Each step is very important to follow because “now”, you will be in control of its finished appearance.

It takes extra work to “fix” areas where the ballast is too thick and mounded up. This problem is going to happen in places where we didn’t mean too anyway. I’ll show you how to “re-groom” a disaster. Study all the techniques we have introduced in the text and then evaluate the various options presented.

Getting Started

Cut a corner off the package. Sprinkle it right from the package directly to the roadbed. The four mil Poly package is ridged and will not collapse when you work with it. Keep the opening about four inches or less from your work. Shake the bag back and fourth and parallel to the roadbed as you tip it. Apply only enough to cover the area. You can always add some more later and you will have to anyway because of random bare spots after wetting and gluing. If you get to much on the ties, (knuckle head), stop!

Grooming Around The Ties

Use a stiff brush to move the extra down the line. There will still be a few grains on the ties and rail flanges. Tap the rail tops with the brush handle to bounce these stubborn particles away. Your can then wipe the tie tops with your finger tip to remove the rest.

For Track Without Roadbed

This applies to all track without roadbed such as industrial sidings, yards or even mainlines. If you want the ballast to be perfectly flat beyond the ties, lift the package up a little higher while sprinkling. This will disperse the grains further and help eliminate mounds. A piece of paper can be used as a guard where the ballast line stops against other scenery.

Fixes

A big mound of ballast maybe to big too feather out so, just scoop it up with a spoon and remove it. Those little unwanted mounds occur in places where I don’t want them. I use a small piece of news paper and drag it over the mound back and forth to feather it out. What ever you use, it will leave a mark. Your fingers will leave prints and a brush will leave furrows. The best way to erase these marks is by tapping the bench work from below with a hammer to flatten them out.

Ballasting With Roadbed

Split cork roadbed always has a rough burr that needs to be sanded smooth. Other roadbeds such as Homosote need to have the sharp edges sanded round. If the track is not centered on the roadbed, plan on using more ballast to make it even from side to side.

Start ballasting from the bench work up to the top of the roadbed first. This allows the lower grains to become a foundation for the grains that pile up on top. If you ballast from the top down, the rocks pick up speed on the sloped roadbed and make a mess as they bounce all over. Now you can ballast around the ties as we mentioned before.

Grooming

Wherever the ballast is uneven along the sloped bank, drag a piece of news paper over it to grade it. You may even have to drag material from bottom to the top. Sprinkle more ballast only to even out your repair marks.

Ballasting With Two Or More Colors

Western railroads are notorious for re-ballasting with different colors over the years. You can see different color bands in the roadbed as a result of this. Begin by applying an earth product on the bench work up to both sides of the roadbed. Start applying the lowest color along the base of the roadbed and cover it up to the top edge of the slope. Apply the second color around the ties but don’t let it spill down the slope and mix into the other ballast. Three colors can be done the same way, however a taller roadbed such as Homosote makes it easier.

Wetting

All dry scenery material should be wetted before bonding. We add a few drops of liquid dish soap to a quart of water as a dispersant. This helps the water flow thought the material evenly and thoroughly. The material needs to get wet right down to the base. The wetting operation prepares the material for accepting the bonding material.

Some modelers prefer to use rubbing alcohol or photo flow as a wetting agent because they are of a lower viscosity than water. This means that it’s less likely to leave “pot holes” in the dry ballast.

How to wet

Eye Dropper Method.
It is very easy to disturb the ballast with even a drop of water.

1. Start wetting the ballast by dropping water on the ties. The water will slowly run off them and into the ballast. You will see the water spread out into the dry ballast
2. Now you can drop water where ever the ballast is already wet. Do about a foot of track until all the ballast is wet.

Spray Bottle

1. Use a spray bottle that gives a fine mist. Hold the nozzle about a foot away and start spraying in a sweeping motion. The one foot distance allows the sprayer to disperse the water into a mist without blasting the dry ballast.
2. Some nozzles will sputter water drops just as you pull the trigger. Start the spray action where the ballast is already wet and then move it over the dry ballast.
3. Continue spraying until the ballast is soaked.

Before You Bond It

Take a good look at the wet ballast. If you are not satisfied with the neatness of it, stop! Allow it to dry out and then “fix it” while you can.

Bonding Materials

White Glue
One part white glue and three parts water is the most economical type of bonding agent. I mix up a batch in a pint bottle and use it for all scenery work. It sets up very hard and will even amplify the train wheel sounds to the bench work. Have you ever heard a quiet train? White glue can be softened by wetting the area with water. Now you can make any changes with the track work if necessary later on.

Matte Medium
Matte Medium can be purchased in art supply stores. It is more water resistant that white glue, however, the cost can be several times more. Some modelers use it because they want less “sound board” effect while running trains.

Granular Glue
Some modelers like to pre-mix dry glue into the ballast. All you have to do is spread it in place and then wet it. “Weldwood” powdered glue will cure “water proof”. One disadvantage is that the ballast may leave depressions as the glue dissolves while wetting. The major problem is that once you “wet” it, you can’t fix it anymore.

Bonding
The same bonding method is used for “white glue” or “matte medium”. Wet ballast is fairly stable and is not disturbed like dry ballast during the bonding process. Spray bottles get glue on the rails and make clean up more difficult. I have found that an eye dropper is a safer tool to use for “N” & “HO” Fine ballast.

Start out by dripping over the ties and then out to the edges of the roadbed. You can see the milky color from the glue seep into the wetted ballast. This is how you can tell where you need to apply more bonding agent.

HO Mainline and Large Scale ballast is bigger rock so you can apply the bonding agent faster. An eye dropper is still the safer tool to avoid making those “pot holes.” You can use a 6 or 12 oz. bottle with a small extended tip and just stream the glue on between the ties. Now you can finish the sloped area the same way.

Touch Up

Once the ballast is wet, look at it for excessive mounds. They will still be there when it dries and hard to fix. Use your finger to pat it smooth and then leave it alone to dry. Hopefully this problem exists in only a few places at the most because you don’t want the finished job appearing with a lot of finger prints.

Let it dry and then lightly scrape away the loose grains sticking out and then re-ballast the area lightly and re-bond.

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