Model Train Tips» Locomotives Tips

Airbrushing Tips to Weather Your Model Railroad

Model Train Tips — Fri, 30 Sep 2011 22:12:14 +0000

Weathering with an air brush is easy to do and gives excellent results. Start with darker colors and add lighter colors on top.

Line up all your cars, structures and loco’s and treat them assembly line style, then change colors and do it again and again.

Remember, weathering is a matter of degree and most rolling stock is fairly clean.

The disadvantage of weathering with paint is that it is pretty permanent when you are done.

Mac McCalla shared this tip for airbrushing:

I have been weathering with an airbrush for many years and have done many clinics for Badger Airbrush and at the GATS train shows. Here are a few helpful hints, both for the beginner and the experienced air brusher.

A double action brush is by far the easiest and most productive, both with ease and performance. I use a gravity feed, Badger model 100LG most of the time as it allows for very close up work (nuts/bolts, valves, fittings) and anything else that requires very small and close up work.

There is no jar to contend with and get in the way. For other work, a Model 150 is the all around brush to use for this hobby.

I have found that by using four colors, you can weather your project to any degree that you want simply by mixing and blending as you paint the object. The four colors I use are:

Rust

Roof brown

Engine black

Earth

You can use either water base or oil base paints and paint one over the other if desired. Both Model Flex (water base) and Floquil (oil base) are excellent paints and come already mixed and labeled from the manufacturer.

If you are going to use the colors I suggested, start with the rust, then paint over and blend in the roof brown. The engine (or grimy) black can then be lightly dusted over the two colors to blend them all together. The earth (if desired) can be painted over the results to resemble water staining and sun bleaching.

Hopefully this little bit of information will help someone who has the desire to weather their engines and rolling stock, also good for structures and scenery.

Do you have a tip or technique you’d like to share with Model Train Tips readers? Use the contact form on the Contact Model Train Tips page to send it in.

Painting and Weathering Using Common Household Items

Model Train Tips — Fri, 30 Sep 2011 21:32:17 +0000

Always on the lookout for cost effective ways to enhance their model railroad layouts, modelers continue to come up with unique methods for weathering.

Painting

Here’s a tip where Palmer Schatell describes one way he paints some components of his layout:

When airbrushing HO [cars & engines], with a little hand molding, the soft cardboard rolls that toilet paper comes on fits into the cars and locomotive bodies and provides a way of holding these objects.

I used the cap from a spray can fastened to the center of an inexpensive Lazy Susan to allow me to turn the bodies without having to touch them while the paint was wet.

Highlighting

Here’s how John Hanks adds depth and detail to his layout’s cars and other components:

It’s easy to forget to highlight a car with white paint (other colors work too).

Scratch brushed white paint has a dramatic effect when upper surfaces of trucks, roofs, grab irons, and even human figures are highlighted. It is like adding perspective to a drawing.

Take a stiff brush, put a small amount of white paint on it, and then brush most of it off on some scrap cardboard. Brush upper surfaces with the little that’s left.

Ideally the effect is subtle enough to be imperceptible to the visitor. Cheap water-based craft paint is fine.

If you try these methods of weathering, please share your results or additional thoughts in the comment area below.

Do you have a tip or technique you’d like to share with Model Train Tips readers? Use the contact form on the Contact Model Train Tips page to send it in.

Extreme Weathering for Your Model Railroad Cars

Model Train Tips — Tue, 30 Aug 2011 23:23:53 +0000

Pepper Kay shared this tip about extreme weathering for your model railroad rolling stock:

Weathered Boxcar

Weather as you normally would your next box car, tank, hopper, etc. then, spray two coats of Dullcote on your finished car.

When that has dried thoroughly, use your pump sprayer filled with 93% rubbing alcohol and give a good, wet coat to your finished car.

The alcohol reacts with the Dullcote and makes the most faded, weathered finish you’ve ever seen.

Careful, don’t do but just a few cars as the effect goes a long way. -Pepper Kay

Note: I have not tried this tip yet but I would like to emphasize that you use care when mixing alcohol with other chemicals. Check the labels of the other chemicals to ensure they don’t react negatively to alcohol.

If you try this method of weathering, please share your results or additional thoughts in the comment area below.

Do you have a tip or technique you’d like to share with Model Train Tips readers? Use the contact form on the Contact Model Train Tips page to send it in.

Tips for Adding Graffiti to Your Model Railroad Scenery

Model Train Tips — Sat, 20 Aug 2011 00:26:25 +0000

We’ve all seen graffiti on trains. What would a realistic model railroad layout be without graffiti on some of the rolling stock?

Here are some tips from other modelers for adding graffiti to your model railroad layout scenery and rolling stock:

You know, I realized a great way to make graffiti without buying those expensive decals. I use White-out (a correction pen), the finer the tip the better.

I even made up a cool scene with this- I painted an HO car, parked it in front of a university, and put an angry teacher beside it, like one of his students painted it! -asparuh frangov (viper)

Here’s another suggestion:

To put graffiti on train cars or buildings use gel pens from your local office supply store. They write on just about anything. -Tim White

Here’s a website full of pictures of graffiti on trains to give you some inspiration: Art Crimes: Trains

Do you have a tip or technique you’d like to share with Model Train Tips readers? Use the contact form on the Contact Model Train Tips page to send it in.

Developing a Paint Scheme for Your Model Railroad

Model Train Tips — Wed, 15 Jun 2011 16:00:47 +0000

By Mike Rountree

If you’re the creative type who just has to model a railroad that never existed, rather than adopt a specific prototype, then sooner or later you’re going to need to invent a color scheme for your fictional pike.

How do you come up with something that looks plausible yet unique?

While it may seem that you have a blank slate to work with, and can do anything at all, you would do well to restrain yourself based on some research and understanding. Otherwise, you can end up with a fairly outlandish scheme that doesn’t feel right, as much as you might like the colors.

As an example, consider metallic copper – sure you can buy a rattle can of spray paint and come up with a striking engine, but where in the real world has such ever been seen?

First off, let us define some terms. The Field Color is the main body color, which comprises at least 50% of the composition. The Accent Color is the secondary color which is applied to less than half.

If there is a third color, call that the Trim Color, which would be used in very minor amounts, and usually for things like pinstripes or lettering. Of course, on a locomotive there might be a lot of features painted black, such as the trucks or fuel tank.

You might thus have a black accent color that exceeds the raw surface area of field color, breaking the percentage rule, but one would not consider black to be the field color.

Using these terms, let’s look at some famous schemes and dissect them. The Southern Pacific Daylight passenger train is known for its red and orange.

Taking the train as a whole, the red is the field color, the orange is the accent, and silver is the trim.

In this case, the black portions of the engine and cars are not really considered part of the color scheme, though it is a good idea to pay attention to which parts of the rolling stock are painted black.

The Chessie System is a harder case, since it is comprised of relatively equal parts blue, orange, and yellow.

Based on color theory, I would rate yellow as the field color, blue as the accent, and orange as the trim. This is because the human eye is more responsive to yellow then the other two colors.

One way to test these classifications is to try to imagine the scheme without each color, one at a time. Without the field color, the scheme should be unrecognizable. However, one could easily change or remove a trim color and still recognize the scheme.

This leads to the first proven method to derive a paint scheme – just evolve an existing scheme by replacing one or more of the colors! Since the field color is the strongest component of identity, replacing it should yield instant uniqueness.

To use the SP example above, imagine that instead of red, you had yellow as the field color, perhaps for a line that runs in Florida (the Sunshine State). Or, for the Chessie example, trade the yellow for grey and see what happens.

This method becomes less effective when you replace only accents, and even less so when swapping only trim colors, since these are progressively less critical to identity. Of course, one can replace more than one color; take the UP’s yellow field, grey accent, and red trim, and swap them all for a maroon field, black accent, and Dulux gold trim, for instance.

As for the color palette that you can choose from, there’s obviously an entire rainbow available, but it is best to stick with certain colors that real lines used. More exotic colors were avoided primarily because they were more expensive, and darker tones were preferred since they didn’t show road grime (weathering) as much.

There are always exceptions (Soo Line’s white or Conrail’s bright blue come to mind) but it makes sense to stick with good railroad colors. These include Tuscan Red (more brown than red), Brunswick Green (or other similar dark greens), Royal Blue, true Red, Dulux Gold/Yellow, Grey, and of course Black. Certain colors, like Pink or Taupe, have no real part in railroad history, so if you feel compelled to use them you better have a good reason.

As mentioned before, it was common to paint some portions of an engine or car black, usually because that location was expected to get much dirtier than the rest. Look at real-world examples and learn which parts make sense to be “black-trimmed”, and don’t worry about black being a fourth color to your tripartite scheme.

On my own Winchester Paston & Portsmouth, the top third of the engine body is black (using black as my accent), with the field color red below. This was done because the red paint is more expensive than basic black, so it only was applied where it would be visible to the public, plus the top portion is where all the louvers and exhaust vents are located, where the engine will get dirtiest. It is similar to the Milwaukee Road’s orange and black scheme, which was developed for similar reasons.

Pick your field, accent, and trim colors based on some understanding of color theory. If you are unfamiliar with the Color Wheel, there are a number of ways you can learn about it on the internet. The Color Wheel positions opposite (complimentary) colors on opposite sides of the wheel, and similar (analogous) colors adjacent.

One side of the wheel has yellows, oranges, and reds, and these are called warm tones (they are the colors of fire). The other side has purples, blues, and greens, which are the cool tones. In the center of the wheel is neutral grey, or white or black (one might think of it as a color sphere really, with white at the north pole and black at the south pole, and rainbow hues around the equator).

The more saturated a color is, the closer it is to the rim of the wheel, and unsaturated colors are located more near the center. Notice that the common railroad colors tend to be unsaturated, so stay away from the rim. You can pick colors that balance across the wheel for a complimentary scheme, such as Chessie’s: the yellow and orange are balanced by their mutual opposite, the blue.

Or you can pick an analogous color scheme such as SP’s orange and red; in this case the strong warm tones are meant ton convey the sun’s warmth. If one were to add a complimentary blue-green to this analogous scheme, it would undermine the intention.

Similarly, the Northern Pacific’s light and dark green combo is meant to evoke the evergreen forests of the northwest, and the complimentary red trim color is used only sparingly so as not to compromise this intention.

One way to situate your fictional railroad into a certain region is to adopt the colors of a similar real railroad, perhaps even one that yours does interchange with. For instance, my WP&P makes use of a dark blue (on passenger equipment) that relates to both the B&O and C&O, nearby neighbors.The real N&W adopted its dark red for passenger trains based on its relationship to the Pennsylvania Railroad.

Give some thought, too, to creating a scheme that can be adapted to all kinds of engines and cars. Don’t design around one specific type of engine, or you may get stuck with something that doesn’t adapt well. For instance, if you base your scheme on a BL-2 with its uniquely bulging physique, your scheme might not look so great on a trim Geep-9.

Of course, your scheme can evolve, too, so you might have variations that apply in different eras. A lot of the “bow wave” styles that emerged when F-units were the prominent diesel did not translate well to hood units, and those schemes had to be adapted.

Plus, you might want to tell a bit of a story with your schemes. For instance, the N&W adopted blue instead of black when it was considering a merger with C&O, then went back to black after that effort failed. Similarly, my WP&P went from red and black with white lettering to maroon and gold with blue lettering, as N&W ramped up its ownership in the years just prior to merger – the maroon signifying N&W blood.

In truth, this has more to do with me playing around with schemes and generating more options. Don’t think that once you’ve come up with one viable scheme, that it is the only option from here on out! Use what you know to come up with another version, then see if you can invent a history to justify it.

Finally, it is a good idea to solicit critical feedback from the modeling community. If you belong to a club, do a mock up and ask for comments. Ask where they might guess this railroad operates, whether it is a Class 1 or short line, or what real line it resembles; you might be surprised at what associations your scheme calls to mind.

If you feel handy on the computer, use an image editor to do a mock up and then post images on a forum or two. If you don’t know your way around an image editor, then you can do a mock up in some other way and just use a digital camera to photograph it. Be open to all comments, and recognize that we all have our favorite colors and schemes, and some comments may owe a lot to such bias.

In the end, though, you are the ultimate judge! I wish you success in establishing your railroad empire’s corporate identity.

Michael Rountree is an N-scale model railroader who works for one of the best residential architects Cincinnati has to offer, helping to guide client’s dreams through both design and construction phases to be realized on budget.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Rountree

A Good Quality Locomotive Will Make All The Difference

Model Train Tips — Sun, 29 Nov 2009 16:22:05 +0000

It can be very frustrating having a locomotive that you need to push to get going, or it suddenly speeds up and falls off the tracks.

A locomotive runs by picking up the electricity from the track through its wheels. The wheels transfer the electricity to the motor, which then turns the gears to drive the locomotive.

A locomotive with poor pickup on the wheels or a poor gear set up will give you lots of problems. As with most things, you get what you pay for . . .but this is one area you do not want to skimp on. A great operating locomotive is 90% of the way to having a fantastic model train layout.

When buying a locomotive these points are critical:

The amount of metal wheels that pick up the electricity – the more the better, but definitely more than 1 set.
A good gearing ratio and motor which requires the least amount of electricity to move the locomotive, with a slow but smooth start.
Flywheels at one or both ends of the motor to ensure a smooth take off and smooth stop.
The weight of the locomotive should be just right to maintain a good connection to the track at all times but not too heavy to make the locomotive sluggish.
The length of the locomotive – shorter diesel locomotives are less likely to derail on the curves than longer steam locomotives.

Most hobby shops will let you test the locomotive on their in-house test tracks before you buy.

Test the locomotive forwards and backwards; check for a nice smooth take off and a nice smooth stop when the power is ramped up or down.

I usually go into my local hobby shop after doing my research online, test the locomotive, and then purchase online.

That tip has saved me nearly 30% of the retail price in some cases.

Buy quality when you buy your locomotives; I guarantee the investment will be well worth it.

Article by Bruce Morgan, a passionate model railroader and author of the best-selling Model Trains For Beginners ebook.

How Model Train Locomotives Work

Model Train Tips — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 16:47:51 +0000

A locomotive runs by picking up an electrical current from the metal rails through metal wheels that ride on the rails. The electricity is transferred from the wheels to the motor, which causes the motor to run.

The motor connects to the wheels through a mechanical drive system. When the electricity turns the motor, the motor turns the gears that turn the wheels and push the locomotive along the train tracks. Simple!

The contact point where your locomotive wheel meets the rail is extremely small. That’s why; it doesn’t take much in the way of dirt, dust, or debris to obstruct the wheel-to-rail contact. Dirt can build up, so it is important that you keep the wheels clean and free of accumulated dirt.

If the wheels of your locomotive become dirty, they may not make good contact with the metal rails, and your train will stall. Remember, plastic wheels don’t conduct electricity.

Locomotive Wheels And Locomotive Gears

A good locomotive needs lots of wheels and lots of gears. A poor performing locomotive is often because of the gears and/or the wheels. Although in saying that, some locomotives with only a few wheels work surprisingly well . . . although it is considered to be unusual, rather than the norm.

Article by Robert Anderson, author of the best-selling Model Train Help ebook.

The Art of Applying Decals

Model Train Tips — Wed, 22 Jul 2009 19:41:12 +0000

by Joe Czapiga

The art of applying thin film wet decals to models is one that only gets better with practice. If at first you don’t succeed, try and try again.

Patience and persistency will allow you to produce models that look as good, if not better than the models in all your favorite magazines.

I am sure many people have many different methods of applying decals successfully. The methods I use were mostly developed by trial and error and lots of query at every hobby shop I’ve gone to.

As for the myth that you won’t be able to produce a great looking model until you have 20 years of experience, forget it. I have always loved trains, but I have only been a modeler for about three years. It has only been about one year since I decided to try custom painting and decaling.

If you have never tried to apply thin film decals before, your first experience will probably be one of impatience and frustration. These decals are very delicate and can be ruined very easily. For your first project, I recommend practicing with simple decal jobs which do not require strict alignment in order to look good.

Usually, rolling stock such as box cars (smooth sided), covered hoppers, etc. have pretty simple paint schemes. Many are only one or two colors. Stay away from thin, long, longitudinal lines on the long hood of a locomotive such as the GATX units you see on the St. Lawrence & Atlantic. Even the most experienced modeler can have difficulties with these.

Tools for the Task

Applying decals also requires some special tools. What I mean by special tools is you probably have them in your hobby tool box but might not think they would be used to apply decals. Here is a list of tools & supplies I have within arms reach when I apply decals to a model:

A shallow bowl filled about 1/2 way with luke warm water.
Scissors (preferably small to medium size).
Hobby knife.
Two small detailing paint brushes.
Solvaset (decal setting fluid).
Bath tissue or Kleenex (NOT paper towels).
Two No.2 pencils with an eraser.
Cross locking tweezers.
Decals.
Prototype photos (if you have any).

After you have all these items together you’re ready to apply decals.

If by now you don’t have a model to decal, it would probably be a good time to get one. Decals stick the easiest to glossy finishes. They will stick to dull finishes just as well but are much harder to work with on this type of surface.

The decals don’t slide into place as easily making it much more critical to place them almost exactly where they need to be with little or no adjustment. Because of this it may be more difficult to remove any air bubbles under the decal. First time decalers should choose something with a glossy finish. Glossy paint or clear gloss coat work equally well.

The first thing to do is to get all your tools listed above and your model and set them up on a clean flat surface with good lighting. Make sure you have plenty of room to spread out your tools so they can be easily reached if you need them quickly. Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly before you start.

Two Types of Decals

Next, choose a decal you would like to apply. At this step it is a good idea to know what type of decal you are about to apply. I am familiar of two different types; Type One is printed on a plain old sheet of decal paper, and Type Two has each individual decal printed on decal film which is then applied to the paper backing.

With Type One you must trim as close as possible to the design of the decal you are going to apply, otherwise the excess may become visible when it dries on the model. Type Two decals can be cut as close or as far away from the design as you like.

Cut Out Your Decal

Whichever type you have, cut the selected decal from the sheet and place it on the model where you would like it to be. Lining things up and visualizing what you want to do before you put the decal in the water is very important. Once you put the decal in the water, things can get difficult.

Third, you will want to wet the area where the decal will sit with some of the warm water. Use your paintbrush for this. Wetting this area will help reduce air bubbles under the decal and help you maneuver the decal into place.

When you become more experienced at applying decals, you may use the Solvaset to wet the area instead of water. There is an advantage and a disadvantage to using Solvaset instead of water.

Using water allows you unlimited time in adjusting and lining up your decal where you would like it, but does not eliminate air bubbles under the decal (it only helps to minimize).

Using Solvaset eliminates air bubbles almost entirely, BUT, and I stress BUT, you only have about 20 seconds (maximum) before the Solvaset softens the decal making it almost impossible to maneuver.

Soak the Decal

Now you may take your decal and place it in the water. I usually hold the decal with cross-locking tweezers as I place it in the water. Sometimes it is difficult to retrieve a decal, especially if it is small, from the bowl of water if you just toss it in. After about 15-30 seconds you should be able to move the decal around on the paper backing. If not put it back in the water for about 10 seconds more.

Once you can move it, place the decal and paper backing (do not remove the decal from the backing yet) on your index finger. Remove the cross-lock tweezers, slide the decal just a tiny bit to the opposite side of the hand your tweezers are in, and re-apply the tweezers to the backing paper ONLY. Now you have the backing paper and a decal which is free to slide in any direction you would like.

Position the model so you can place the edge of the decal on the model. Then hold that edge to the model with your paintbrush and slide the decal paper backing away. Try to keep the decal as close to the model as possible while pulling the backing paper.

Place the Decal

Once you have removed the backing paper, use your paintbrush to position the decal. Pushing on the edges of the decal is most effective. You may also use the eraser of a No.2 Pencil to move the decal around. Remember, if you used Solvaset instead of water to wet your surface, you must work fast.

Position the decal where you would like it to be. Try to push out any air bubbles under the decal by rolling the bristles of the paintbrush to the outer edge of the decal. After all of the air bubbles have been removed, very gently brush on Solvaset sparingly while not moving the position of the decal. Be sure to cover the whole decal, especially around the edges. The Solvaset usually works its way under the decal pretty good.

Allow the Decal to Dry

At this point you should put the model down and let this decal dry. If you are confident enough you may apply more decals, but remember the decal you just applied is very fragile. If you touch it before it dries you will probably ruin it.

Sometimes the Solvaset makes the decal appear as if it is wrinkling up. This is normal. The decal will set flat on the model when it dries. When the decal does wrinkle, keep an eye on it. If it appears the wrinkle is not coming out on its own you may have to get those wrinkles out.

Before you attempt to move the decal, carefully brush on some warm water (no more than a 1/2 drop or so).Carefully use your paint brush to drag the decal from the outer edges away from the center of the wrinkled area. The decal’s position on the model should not be compromised by this. You should only have to move part of the decal a distance equal to the thickness of the wrinkle.

Inspect the Decal

After the decal dries, inspect it for air bubbles that you missed the first time. If there are any, make a tiny hole in the decal with a pin and brush on some Solvaset making sure it gets in the hole and under the decal. The Solvaset will soften the decal again and make it set to the surface of the model.

Since the decal is soft and wet again you should allow it to dry. Drying times may vary; I recommend at least an hour or so. Usually I will let them dry about an hour before I apply another decal unless I know I can do it without disturbing the one I just applied.

Final Treatment

Finally, I recommend a gloss or dull coat be applied by air brush or spray can to the model after all the decals have been applied and have dried. This will help “hide” the decal edges and make your model look realistic.

After you have practiced these methods a few times and develop some of your own, you will be able to produce models of superior quality.

Your Thoughts

Do you have another method or tip for applying decals to your model railroad cars, locomotives, or scenery? Share it in the comments area below.

Using RTV Molds For Creating Scratch-Built Models

Model Train Tips — Wed, 22 Jul 2009 19:39:41 +0000

by Tony Segro

RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanized) Rubber molds are simple to make and can allow you to cast several identical detail castings for your scratchbuilt models. RTV Rubber is a two-part mixture made by Dow-Corning. It comes in various styles. I find 3110 the easiest to use because it does not require an expensive vacuum pump to decompress air bubbles.

Take the detail you wish to copy, called a MASTER, and glue it into a cardboard or styrene box with dimensions about one inch longer than the master by one inch wider than the master. When placing the master in the box, you will have 1/2″ on all sides. The height of the box should be a minimum 1/4″ higher than the master (the master should be 1/4″ below the top of the box.

To find out exactly how much RTV it will take to make the mold (I don’t like to waste any RTV because it is a bit expensive), I fill the box to the top with salt, or some other granulated substance. I then pour the salt into a clear plastic cup, and level it off. With a black marker, I mark a line around the cup at the height of the salt. I then return the salt to its container.

In the cup, I slowly pour the liquid rubber until it’s just about to the line. I then take some of the catalyst (it’s in a tube with the liquid rubber mixture) on a popcicle stick. Read the directions on the tube for how much to use. It should be a 10:1 ratio of rubber to catalyst.

Slowly stir the catalyst into the rubber until the two are blended well (about 2 minutes). Air bubbles will surface as you stir. Trickle the rubber mixture into the box slowly, trying to fill the corners first. Then, slowly fill the box with the rubber. The master should be totally covered by the rubber. THE SLOWER YOU POUR, THE FEWER AIR BUBBLES THERE WILL BE.

After pouring, the box should be just about full. Gently tap the box on a flat surface for 3-5 minutes to get rid of air bubbles. Another way to eliminate the bubbles would be to use the warm air from a blow dryer. Any trapped air bubbles will ruin your mold as they will destroy the details.

Once the air bubbles stop surfacing, let the box sit on a flat surface for 24 hours. To check to see if it hardened after 24 hours, take a toothpick and gently rub it over the smooth, rubber surface. If it’s still liquidy, let it sit another several hours, checking it from time to time.

Once the rubber is hardened, cut down the sides of the box and remove it slowly and carefully from the master detail, and powder it with baby powder.

The mold, if handled with care (cleaned with dish detergent, blow dried and powdered between each use), will last for an extremely long time without losing detail. You can use Alumilite (2 part liquid plastic) or a type of plaster or polyurethane to cast your copies.

Model Train Tips» Locomotives Tips

Airbrushing Tips to Weather Your Model Railroad

Related Articles:

Painting and Weathering Using Common Household Items

Painting

Highlighting

Related Articles:

Extreme Weathering for Your Model Railroad Cars

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Tips for Adding Graffiti to Your Model Railroad Scenery

Related Articles:

Developing a Paint Scheme for Your Model Railroad

Related Articles:

A Good Quality Locomotive Will Make All The Difference

Related Articles:

How Model Train Locomotives Work

Related Articles:

The Art of Applying Decals

Tools for the Task

Two Types of Decals

Cut Out Your Decal

Soak the Decal

Place the Decal

Allow the Decal to Dry

Inspect the Decal

Final Treatment

Your Thoughts

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Using RTV Molds For Creating Scratch-Built Models

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