The hobby of collecting model trains or locomotives includes building railroads and the scenery. Many people find it stressful and a lot of work but it actually is a lot of fun. Building the railroad and the scenery for your train set is a perfect chance to let out your creative juices. Also, a permanent railroad is a one of a kind house decor you can show off to your friends.

Building the bench work for the railroad will consume a lot of space. Plan carefully where the location of the railroad will be because you are building a permanent foundation for your model trains and landscape. Other people buy this as a kit instead so that they can uninstall the whole thing when they want to move it or when bringing it to shows. These kits are also precut and predrilled and are sturdier then a piece of plywood on two sawhorses.

Other people prefer to build their own bench work than buying a ready made one so they can apply their ideas and vision to the whole thing. Building one is a little complicated, takes a lot of work and also consumes time but is worth it when the finish product is done.

In building a home-made model foundation, you have to know how large it is exactly. You have to know if there is space in your house for a large landscape or a smaller one. You also have to decide on the shape; it can be either square, rectangle, oval or circular. The legs of the tables are regularly 28 inches long but can be altered according to your vision. Make sure that what you are building is solid and can bear the weight of the locomotives and the railroads. A high-quality platform is a 3/8 inch or ½ inch thick piece of plywood. Other people build their own portable platforms so they can disassemble it easily just like the ones that come in kits.

In creating the scenery, you have to know your perspective and visualize it as you build everything. The trick is to make your layout appear larger than it is. Diversity is the key to having a nice combination of sceneries.

Placing larger trees in the foreground and smaller trees in the background or on top of the mountains is a good example. Bodies of water like ponds, rivers, streams or even waterfalls also give the whole thing a relaxing effect.

Also, you have to have a theme for the whole landscape. If you are conceptualizing a logging train, the landscape should include rugged mountainous areas covered with trees and you can even put intricate details like sawmills or lumberyards. You can also put tunnels, grassy meadows, fields, rock formations, roads, bridges, towns or villages, houses and buildings to the scenery to make it even more lifelike. Some people like adding really fine details such as signs, telephone poles, fences, underbrush, bushes, flowers, hedges, people, and animals.

Building the railroad and the scenery is one of the most enjoyable parts of the model train hobby. It might take a lot of time and money but is worth every penny.

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The popularity of the HO scale model train is in large part due to its ideal blend of size and detail. Besides the detail provided by the model trains themselves, modelers pride themselves in their quality track planning and benchwork.

The preparation and design of the track layout itself is referred to as track planning. The underlying structure beneath the track is called the benchwork. Attention to both concepts contributes to a successful HO scale model train layout.

So why do model railroad modelers emphasize their track planning and benchwork? Many model railroad hobbyists enjoy the operations side of model trains. They choose to focus on recreating the actual operations of a railroad.

Other railroaders take pride in the quality and creativity of their train layouts. And for many, the layout reflects on the skill and enthusiasm of the hobbyist. It’s a measure of the railroader.

Benchwork: The Foundation

Given the standard 4 foot by 8 foot rectangular size of plywood, this size is often becomes a starting point for the model railroad foundation. But consider variations on this popular size. For example, many HO scale model train modelers choose 30 inch by 60 inch sections screwed together.

The sections may be combined in a variety of ways, including along the perimeter of a room. By building benchwork for model trains in sectionals, you obtain flexibility in moving or modifying the track layout. Not only does this size sectional fits through standard sized doorways, but it makes it easier for you to reach across the sectional. A trick to add realism and convenience is to mount your benchwork shoulder or chest high.

As for the material, seasoned wood or plywood is less likely to warp or bend. Avoid difficult or heavy materials such as Oriented-Stranded Board (OSB), homasote, or particle board. Consider a coat of paint for protection.

If you want a variety of elevations in your layout, consider installing sections of benchwork at different levels. However track grades should be kept under 3% grade, where the grade is the rise over the run. For example, a 2″ rise over a 100″ run is a 2% grade.

Track Planning: The Layout

The goal with model railroad track planning is the successful tradeoff between space and realism. An additional factor to consider is a table layout versus a wrap-around layout. The wrap-around layout allows for long straight sections and wide curves. Or consider double high layouts for space efficiency.

Always design before permanently attaching track. This is particularly important if your plan has little room for error. You may choose to position a track yard near the front of the benchwork, allowing closer viewing and easier access. Determine your preference between track and realism. You can do more with a lot of track, but you lose some of the realism. Don’t forget to allow space in front and back for scenery.

Track planning is about making your priorities and choosing tradeoffs based on your preferences. You may choose several turnouts, to include various types of passing, siding, facing-point, and stub-ends. Placing a stub-end close to the edge of a section or table makes it easier to park or move equipment, as you’ll likely prefer to store extra equipment on close shelves.

You’ll likely want to have at least one track segment that allows for non-stop operation. Of course actual railroads don’t run in a loop, but running a train non-stop is a great feature. But for a realistic layout, combine features such as loops with point-to-point sidings.

These tips should help with your own track planning and benchwork. Successful advance planning will help you identify your priorities and design to those preferences. And you’ll be better able to manage the tradeoff between realism and detail. No doubt, your up-front planning will result in more HO scale model train layout success.

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Recently, I decided to add a new canyon to my N-scale layout. The plan was to build three separate trestle spans across my new canyon, after I build my new canyon of course!

This was my opportunity to create a steel sub-girder trestle 280 feet long and 75 feet tall, plus two main line trestle spans, 200 feet long and 50 feet tall! Not to mention the possibility of some deep-water scenery and maybe a chance to model a boat.

I purchased a supply of ‘Micro Engineering’ forty and eighty-foot steel sub girders and their “Tall Steel Viaduct” trestle kit. The sub-girders support the long sweeping curve as trains rumble over the canyon.

The model looks great and can be built to support trains for any curve, and length. I decided on an arrangement of forty and eighty foot girder spans. It would make an interesting focal point to what was, dull scenery. I know trains are fascinating to watch, even more so when they cross bridges and trestles or appear from and disappear into tunnels.

My N-scale layout, is a tabletop on steroids. It is 800 by 400 feet (2½’ x 5′) scale. I planned it as a display to run transition era freight trains, rather than operate as a railroad. I have two levels, ten switches and four trestles on the layout, not to mention eighteen power blocks and two throttles. The switches are all hand laid and make the layout possible.

I formed the scenery base with polyfoam and fiberglass screen, because of its strength, and lightweight. By design, this layout is subject to moving and whatever related stresses that may bring. The idea was to model detailed rock formations, and water scenes, rather than wooded, timber areas. Enough about my railroad, back to the curved trestles.

To start with, I made a tracing of the track to be spanned. I used freezer paper, shiny side down, and taped it to the track at each end of the span. Next, I traced the top of the rails to be supported by the trestle with a lead pencil and secured that tracing to a wood base with masking tape. This template will be used to shape the curve of the trestle.

I decided on the girder sequence and assembled the girders into modular trestles. When I was done, I had three forty foot spans complete with cross braces and two sets of eighty-foot spans without braces. Two of these eighty-foot girders are shortened to introduce a curve to the trestle. Remember the template is a top view and to build the trestle as you look down on it.

Eventually I wound up with three modules; two four leg, A-frame, steel support towers, and a module of five sub girders that follow the curve of the track. I finished cross bracing the span and painted the hard to reach places in the support towers before cementing them into a module. Once the trestle was completed, I finished painting and weathering details. Now I had to remove my canyon from rolling scenery. I say scenery, but it is basic. No color, everything is white resin cast plastic rocks or tan colored poly foam shell. At first glance, it looks like I modeled snow!

I laid out the canyon area with a felt tip pen, and proceeded to cut the line with a sharp razor knife. The polyfoam was hot glued to the bench work and can be removed easily with a sharp box knife. A characteristic of the polyfoam is how clean and easy it cuts with a sharp blade.

With the polyfoam removed, the bench work is exposed. I marked all the braces on the bench work supporting the road, and began the process of removing and designing the new bench work. In this case I was looking at a roadbed, wires, switch motors, bench work and three bare tracks spanning an open hole. I could no longer run trains!

I rebuilt the bench work, and formed the shape of the canyon with polyfoam. I added cast resin rocks in the canyon walls and floor to make it a rugged and dangerous place to be. When finished, these huge rocks will be surrounded by water, and concrete pyramid footings will support the steel towers on the rocks.

Now, with basic scenery complete, I needed to fit the trestle into the canyon. I assembled the support towers right out of the kit. The length of each individual tower support leg would need to be determined allowing it to land on a concrete footing and square up to support the trestle. This is easier than it sounds. I used a 3:1 mixture of sculptamold and lightweight hydrocal to cast eight rectangular blocks ¾” x ¾”x 1 ¾”.

When they cured, I used a bench mounted disc sander to shape them into a blunt pyramid. I drilled a 3/16″ cavity 1″ deep into the blunt end to accept the tower legs. This cavity allows for an adjustment while fitting the trestle into the canyon. Cut the bottom of the tower legs about ½” inch shorter than needed to reach the ground. Next, slip the tower leg into the cavity of the pyramid footing. After checking the fit to the rock, use a file to fit the pyramid base to the rock. I repeated the process with each tower leg.

I was ready to unitize the trestle. Using (extra thick 10-25 sec.) cyanoacrylate glue, I filled the pyramid footing cavity ¼” from the top. Only one footing block should be attached at a time. I positioned the trestle into the canyon; and used tape to secure it to the track that spans the canyon. When you are satisfied the trestle is in the correct position and level, verify the location of the footing and let the glue set up. Repeat this until all eight footings are attached to the support tower legs.

Finally, I used a hobby saw to remove the original track. Micro Engineering Bridge Flex track, was used to replace the standard track across the trestle. The ties are wider and spaced closer and look true to scale 1:160. The trestle kit, model #75-518, comes with guardrails, water barrels and platforms. I am sure this kit is available in HO scale. Use cyanoacrylate glue sparingly to attach the trestle to the bottom of the ties when you finally finish the scenery.

Just two more two hundred-foot spans and I can run trains!

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